From-Scratch Real Pistachio Ice Cream Recipe

Preparing the Pistachios: Blanch and peel the pistachios , then drizzle lightly with pistachio oil. Toss to evenly coat with oil, spread over a parchment-lined half sheet pan, and place in a cold oven. Preheat to 200°F (90°C), and dry the pistachios until they feel firm to the touch and rather hard, with a golden hue just beginning to develop here and there, about 3 hours. The timing of this process can vary dramatically depending on the accuracy of a given oven, and how much water the pistachios were able to absorb during the blanching phase, among other factors, such as freshness. The idea is to slowly and gently drive off their moisture and develop a delicately toasted flavor, rather than one that is dark or robust. Everything about the flavor of the ice cream hinges on this step, so keep a close eye on them.

After toasting, cool the pistachios and then roughly chop. Combine with the milk and cream in a 3-quart saucier, and bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring from time to time, then cover and cool to room temperature off heat. Once cool, refrigerate overnight, or up to 36 hours.

Return the chilled pistachio-infused dairy to a simmer, then strain through a mesh sieve into a large bowl. The pistachios can be used as a 1:1 substitution for the pistachios called for in our pistachio paste , but they will not be used further in this recipe.

Let the 3-quart saucier cool until safe to touch (no need to wash), then add the toasted sugar, egg yolks, and salt, and whisk to combine. When smooth, add the warm pistachio-infused dairy and whisk gently to combine.

Cook over medium-low heat, stirring and scraping constantly with a flexible, heat-resistant spatula until warm to the touch, then increase heat to medium. Continue stirring and scraping until thickened and steaming hot, or around 165°F (74°C), although precision is not required in a recipe like this. Strain the ice cream base into a non-reactive container, then whisk in the Cynar, or other liqueur.

Color Correction, optional: Depending on the natural color of the pistachios, as well as the degree of browning developed in the toasting phase, and the intensity of the color of the yolks, the color of the ice cream base can range from army green to khaki, or outright yellow. This is perfectly normal, if not what's traditionally expected. If desired, the warm tone imparted by the toasted pistachios and egg yolks can be neutralized with a minute amount of blue gel paste. Place a single drop onto the edge of a knife, then dip the top of a whisk or spatula into the gel. Whisk or stir the base to disperse the color, and repeat as needed, stirring patiently between each addition to ensure the full color has developed. Use caution, as excess dye will produce a decidedly artificial color.

Cover and refrigerate the base until no warmer than 39°F (4°C), or cool to the same temperature in an ice bath; the time required will vary considerably depending on the technique, as well as the container style. Churn in an ice cream maker until thick, with a texture like soft-serve. Meanwhile, place a 1-quart container and flexible spatula in the freezer. When ice cream looks thick and light, shut off the machine and, using the chilled spatula, scrape ice cream into the prepared container. Enjoy as soft-serve, or cover with plastic pressed directly against surface of ice cream, then close lid and freeze until firm. In an airtight container, with the surface of the ice cream protected by a sheet of plastic, the ice cream will keep for up to one month in the freezer.