Insalata di Mare (Italian Seafood Salad)

In a nonreactive bowl, combine scallops with 6 tablespoons (90ml) lemon juice and toss well. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 2 hours.

Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, toss shrimp with salt and baking soda and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

In a large saucepan, heat 2 crushed cloves garlic in 1 tablespoon (15ml) oil over medium heat until golden, about 4 minutes. Add 1 cup (240ml) water and bring to a simmer over high heat. Add mussels, cover, and cook until all mussels have opened, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer mussels to a large bowl and refrigerate until chilled.

Add 4 cups (960ml) cold water to mussel-steaming liquid, along with 2 tablespoons (30ml) lemon juice, peppercorns, and bay leaves. Add shrimp (without rinsing) and squid to poaching liquid and set over medium-high heat. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until liquid temperature reaches 170°F on an instant-read thermometer. Continue cooking until shrimp are cooked through and no longer translucent in the center. (They may already be cooked by the time your water reaches 170°F; adjust heat to make sure temperature does not go over 170°F otherwise.) Using a slotted spoon, transfer shrimp and squid to a large bowl, then refrigerate until chilled. Discard poaching liquid, peppercorns, and bay leaves.

Pick all but 10 mussels from their shells, discarding shells. Cut shrimp in half lengthwise down the middle. In a medium bowl, combine parsley, remaining 1/2 cup (120ml) lemon juice, lemon zest, remaining 1/2 cup (120ml) olive oil, remaining 2 minced cloves garlic, cayenne pepper, and coriander seed (if using). Whisk well.

Drain scallops. In a large bowl, combine scallops, shrimp, squid, shelled mussels, and dressing. Season with salt and pepper and toss well. Mix in 10 shell-on mussels. Dressed seafood can be refrigerated for up to 2 days and will improve in flavor during that time.

When ready to serve, add celery and fennel to seafood salad and toss well. (Celery and fennel can be added up to 30 minutes before serving, but any earlier and they'll soften too much.) Season with salt and pepper and serve chilled.