Ramp Pesto

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Trim root ends from ramps, being careful not to remove more of the white bulb than necessary. Separate white and green parts, then roughly chop white parts. Set white and green ramp parts aside separately.

In a food processor, pulse pistachios until finely chopped. In a large mixing bowl, prepare an ice bath. Add reserved ramp greens to boiling water and cook until greens have wilted, about 30 seconds. Using a spider, immediately transfer ramp greens to prepared ice bath, swirling to chill rapidly. Drain ramp greens and, using your hands, gently squeeze out any excess water. Coarsely chop greens and add to bowl of food processor with reserved ramp whites and Pecorino Romano.

Pulse contents of food processor, scraping down sides as needed, until mixture forms a rough paste, about 10 pulses. Add lemon zest and lemon juice and pulse until well incorporated, about 5 to 10 pulses.

With food processor running, drizzle in olive oil in a thin stream until oil is fully incorporated and sauce is thick but flowing, about 30 seconds. Season with salt. Use as desired, or refrigerate or freeze.