Biko (Filipino Sticky Rice Cake)

Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat to 375°F (190°C). In a 12-inch nonstick skillet, bring the coconut cream to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to maintain a steady simmer. Cook, stirring every few minutes with a wooden spoon or heatproof spatula, until the curds separate from the oil, smell toasty, and turn deep golden brown, about 30 minutes.

Strain curds through a fine-mesh strainer set over a small heatproof bowl; set aside, reserving strained coconut oil. Transfer the strained latik to a separate small bowl and set aside; the curds will crisp up as they cool. Clean skillet and strainer.

Grease an 8-inch square anodized aluminum pan with the reserved coconut oil (save remaining coconut oil for another use).

In a large bowl, cover rice with water by several inches. Using your hands, swish the rice in the water until water turns cloudy, about 30 seconds. Strain through fine-mesh strainer and repeat two more times.

In a 3-quart saucepan, combine the washed rice with 2 cups (475ml) water, cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower heat to maintain a simmer, and cook until the rice is tender and water has been absorbed, about 18 minutes. Remove from heat and keep covered.

In the cleaned 12-inch nonstick skillet, combine the coconut milk, muscovado sugar, vanilla or pandan extract, and salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, watching constantly to ensure it doesn't boil over. Lower heat to maintain a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture has formed a dark brown caramel that coats the back of a spoon, about 10 minutes; you should have 1 1/2 cups (14 ounces; 400g) caramel. Remove from heat.

Measure 1/2 cup (5 ounces; 140g) of the caramel and set aside. Add the cooked rice to the remaining caramel in the skillet and stir to combine. Return to medium heat and cook, stirring constantly, until caramel is absorbed and the biko mixture begins to thicken, about 5 minutes.

Transfer biko to prepared pan and spread in an even layer. Spread the reserved 1/2 cup caramel on top.

Bake biko until the caramel topping is hot and bubbly, about 20 minutes.

Transfer pan to a wire rack to cool, about 45 minutes. Slice into sixteen 2-inch squares. Top each square with 1/2 teaspoon of reserved latik curds before serving.